Wood Care

Oil Finishes Part 2 Techniques

One of the most critical parts of building up the oil finish is to let the wet sanded layer dry a little increasing the thickness of the coat before wiping to a no streak finish. You must leave a sheen behind as much as possible for good build up but at the point you leave more »

Sanding Surfaces for Brightwork

In getting the best out of an oil finish I will apply two soaking coats of oil as discussed before.  My favorite is to sand the third coat of teak oil lightly with 320 all over without concentrating in any area. 320  black wet dry can be used with the best cutting results and back more »

Oil and Varnish After Treatments

After all the sanding and polishing to the desired finish often I will apply a wax as not only a sealer but as a non stick surface. Too often a hinged leaf may make contact with the varnished edge of the main table. The problem is that the two finished surfaces will stick and bond more »

Finishing With Teak Oil

If you are interested in a satin finish requiring low maintenance then an oil finish is the way to go. After the penetrating oil for two coats and plenty of drying time for two days, flood the surface with oil and wet and just lightly with 320 sandpaper touch the surface all over. This is more »

Finishing Teak 2.0

We have already gotten to the point of having finished with the penetrating oil and letting it cure. The next step is to decide whether to finish with oil or varnish. First we will discuss finishing with oil. more »

Finishing Teak Part 1.5

Finishing teak will be discussed next after the applications of Ship N Shore. First the sealing coats must be dry. This is easily detected with the palm of the hand touching the wood surface. If the first impression is a coolness to the touch then it can go another day of drying. The assumption is more »

Oil Finishes for Teak

In preparing for oil finishes I use Daly’s Seafin “Ship N Shore” penetrating oil before any other finishing. After sanding I apply a soaking coat and wait 30 minutes before applying a second coat. The first coat is usually absorbed entirely. The second coat sits on the surface mostly and makes sure that all areas more »


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